Nati Maharjan belongs to the community that is historically responsible for constructing the chariot of Rato Macchindranath, the god of rain and harvest. [break]
As Rato Machhindranath festival nears, Nati becomes very busy. Even at the age of 74, he is as excited about constructing the chariot as he used to be in his early days.
Nati leads a group of 12 residents of Patan, who are called Yangwals. They carry out certain works related to building the Rato Machhindranath chariot. Nati is one of the oldest Yangwals. When he was young, Nati used to bear much of the burden of chariot building. But now he engages only in less laborious works like boiling and drying of bamboo stripes, which are later latched onto the erected wooden structure of the chariot.
"I do only simple works," says Nati. "These days I guide younger Yangwals to build the chariot properly."
Patan folks making Byayamo, which forms part of the roof of the Rato Machhindranath chariot. (PHOTO: RIWAJ RAI)
With the first drizzles of the year heralding the monsoon, locals have already brought the various types of woods needed for building the chariot.
The Yangwals have already started mending the chariot. "We do not use new chariot every year," says Nati. "We just repair the same old chariot every year. We will build a new one only if the old chariot breaks down completely."
The Yangwals have to complete the chariot within a certain period of time. "We have to start the chariot construction on a certain day," says Nati. "And we have to finish it within two weeks."
This year, the Yangwals will start making the chariot making on April 27, a day after the ritual ablution of the Rato Machchhindranath. "First, we wash the idol of Machhindranath and worship it," says Nati. "And the following day we begin building the chariot."
“We can´t stop the work even if we have toil under scorching sun, brave heavy downpour or face gusty winds. No matter what, we have to meet the deadline," says Nati. "I have gone through this travail most of my life.”
The responsibility of constructing the chariot is divided among several groups. While one group fetches woods, another group erects the basic frame.
While the Yangwals work with bamboo stripes, the Barahis build the interiors of the chariot.
“We are traditional engineers without whom the chariot is incomplete," says Nati. "We are the only ones who are allowed to ascend onto the chariot during the festival."
Suresh Maharjan, 37, another Yangwal, has been part of the group that has been building the chariot for over more than 15 years. "It is always challenging to build the chariot as the work will have to be done as per astrological charts," Maharjan said.
NATI MAHARJAN (PHOTO: RIWAJ RAI)
“Everything has to be ready three days ahead of the beginning of the chariot procession," says he. "The Barahis and Yangwals have to meet the deadline without compromising on anything. But as we find the work exciting, we have never failed to meet the deadline.”
The members of the group that is engaged in making the chariot are not allowed to meet their family members and they must abstain from sex.
They are also barred from eating food just anywhere and liquor is completely forbidden. The workers live in a rented room and cook their own food.
All those involved in the chariot building receive equal shares of rations and wages as prescribed by the government. Apart from daily allowances of Rs 700- 800 per day, they are also offered various cereals, edible oil and condiments. However, most of them say that they are not happy with the amount they are getting.
“The work is painstaking and fraught with risks. We are paid very less money for such a demanding work," said Maharjan
"I would have gladly given up this work, had it not been for moral and customary obligations,” says Suresh. “Other people are reluctant to get involved in chariot making process due to lack of sufficient facilities."
He further shares that their effort is rarely appreciated.
“If the chariot procession concludes without any problem, locals suspect that we might have used the forbidden metals or nails to construct the chariot," says he. "And if the chariot breaks, they accuse us of not doing our job properly," he says. "We always have to take the blame for whatever happens. Nobody cares how hard we work."
PHOTO: RIWAJ RAI
“The chariot that is made up of woods is already vulnerable. The way people treat it during the procession makes the matter worse. There would be no problem if the people act more gently,” says Suresh.
In Newari culture, the building of chariot is the sole responsibility of Jyapu community. As per the local tradition, the chariot should be built with wood and the use of nails or any other metal hooks are completely prohibited.
Making of the Rato Macchhindranath chariot is a centuries-old affair.
Many centuries ago, when the people of Patan were reeling under years of drought, they decided to worship their rain god Rato Macchindranath. As part of worshiping the god, they built Rato Macchindranath´s chariot and started pulling it across Patan.
Rato Macchindranath´s festival has been celebrated ever since. Centuries on, this festival is celebrated with the same joyful spirit. And the process of chariot making has not changed, either.
“There has not been any significant change in the process," Krishna Bahadur Thapa, one of the oldest staff at the Guthi Sansthan, says. "Intricacies of the chariot making are the same."
However, Thapa shares that they are compelled to use a few metals on the wheels to make the chariot stronger. "We started using metals at few places after the chariot broke down several times in the past," he says.
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