"My mother told me to go Godavari and take a dip in the kunda (pond). I don't know why she wanted me to go there, but I thought of obliging her just this once," she says, adding that when she reached the venue the crowd present took her by surprise. "I didn't expect so many people to be at the venue," she says.
Like her, thousands have been thronging to Godavari as the place is hosting a fair that takes place once every 12 years, throughout the month of Bhadra (August 18 – September 17). The time for Barha Barse Godavari Singhasta Mahamela is determined astrologically, when the Sun and planet Jupiter enter the zodiac sign of Leo, which happens once in every 12 years.
According to the Holy Scriptures, Gautam Rishi was living in Phulchowki by serving the cows. But unfortunately, one of them died due to an accident. Because killing a cow is considered a great sin in Hinduism, he sought repentance for it by worshipping Siddheshwor Mahadev for 12 years, whence, Goddess Ganga came to Godavari, and Gautam Rishi took a dip in it which is said to have washed away his sins.
Since then, every 12 years, scores of devotees come to take a dip and worship the shrine of Siddheshwor Mahadev. The occurrence of this tradition, however, is recorded from the fifth century during the reign of the Kirati Kings.
Though the religious importance can't be doubted, for many people, it holds an economic importance as well. For Raju Lama, 28, the mela is alluring because it holds a great business opportunity for him. Beckoning all the tired and hungry looking devotees into his small eatery that he opened especially for the fair, he says that it has been a great opportunity for him to earn money. "We have been arriving here around one every morning since the fair started. We prepare various food items for the devotees and make quite a substantial amount of money," he says.
Like Lama, there are many other small scale business owners who have come from all over the country to set up their stalls so that they can cash in on this wonderful opportunity and earn some extra money. Ramesh Shah Thakuri, 42, who earns his living by selling khuwa at Dakshinkali, has set up shop at Godavari and will continue working from here for a few days more. "I came here to sell my product because during this month many people will come here, and more people mean more business," he says, with a big smile.
For Jeevan Prasad Nepal, 44, it has been an excuse to try and get over the loss of his house and his agriculture business in the earthquake of April 25. "My house in Sindhupalchowk was destroyed and after that, I couldn't continue my traditional occupation of farming. I came here hoping I can do something and find a way to earn a living once again," he says.
Coordinator of the Main Management Committee 2072, Madhusudan Paudel, says that there are around 300 business stalls present at the fair. "We have managed 200 stalls from the committee's side, whereas around 100 stalls have been set up by the locals in the premises," he says, adding that the fair this time around will see around 4.5 million Hindu and Buddhist devotees from all over the country, and even the neighboring country India. "This is one of the oldest fairs in Nepal and has a long history," he says.
Hundreds of volunteers, police force, and health assistants have been deployed to curb the crowd. Eight CCTV cameras including four in the temple premises and four in the bus park area have been put up for security reasons.
For Jit Maya Lama, 79, however, these things don't matter. With a walking stick to support herself, she is happy to be able to give continuity to the ritual carried out by her mother and grandmother, even though she has difficulty walking. After boarding an early morning bus from Panauti, she is happy that she can finally take a bath in the pond.
Godavari is filled with colors as people of different cultural background make it a point to come here, curious to see what it all is about. As it is a fair that takes place once in 12 long years, people note many changes. For Krishna Bahadur Malla, 55, it was important that he skip his business for a day and spend time observing this ancient tradition with his family members. "Celebrating such kind of events speaks volumes about our rich culture. It's a way of life that our ancestors were sure would ensure peace among us all," he says.
Paudel estimates that at least 70,000 to 75,000 people visit the fair every day and as the month of Bhadra nears its end, the daily visitors will only grow. Various festivals like Krishna Janmasthami, Kunseaaushi, and Teej, also fall during the month long fair and that ensures more devotees will throng to Godavari in the coming days.
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